Custom Made with Andreas Weinås
Interview
By: Eton • 6 minCustom Made - a Sartorial Guide with Andreas Weinås
Could you please describe your decision-making process and experience when creating your Custom Made shirt?
When I'm about to tailor a shirt, I always start with determining the purpose and occasion the shirt will be worn for. Is it for a formal event or something more casual for those relaxed moments in life? Depending on the situation, I then choose a fabric and, importantly, details such as cuffs and shirt collar that complement each other well. For a formal shirt, for example, I prefer a slightly more elegant fabric quality like twill or pinpoint, a shirt collar that pairs perfectly with a tie, and perhaps even a french cuff. On the other hand, a more casual shirt might work better with coarser fabrics like oxford, linen, or flannel, a collar that looks best when undone, and a single cuff that aligns well with the relaxed vibe.
Can you elaborate a bit more on your personal style and how that is reflected in the Custom Made shirts you created now with Eton?
It's always challenging to define one's personal style because I believe and hope that it's constantly evolving, albeit not undergoing radical changes. However, there are many basic elements that I often return to, such as a restrained and neutral color palette, a focus on fit, and a love for tailored menswear. I often find inspiration from style icons and films from the past but try to combine it with a silhouette and feeling that is relevant today. For example, my Custom Made shirt can be seen as a homage to Michael Douglas's character Gordon Gekko in Wall Street, but through a slightly more subdued and discreet filter.
Which features of the Eton Custom Made service and the Eton shirt (in general) do you find most distinguished?
Above all, it's the clarity and educational aspect of the service, whether you're ordering in-store or online. Fabric choices, shirt collars, and details are well described on the website, and when starting from existing sizes and fits and then adjusting individual measurements, you can quickly get a sense of the fit you're aiming for. Additionally, the delivery time is extremely impressive, which should not be underestimated.
In your opinion, what constitutes the most crucial aspect of a shirt's design?
Undoubtedly, the shirt collar. It's the first detail that is visible, especially if you're wearing a jacket or suit. It's also the detail that can add a personal touch even to a more traditional white or light blue shirt. For example, I'm very fond of the slightly larger and higher collar from Eton called “High Cut Away”, which I have on my Custom Made shirt. It pairs perfectly with a tie but also looks very good when worn unbuttoned.
Which fabrics do you prefer and why?
I like different fabrics for different situations and seasons. A classic dress shirt in a fine cotton quality is, of course, timeless, but otherwise, I find it inspiring to wear more seasonal fabrics such as linen or cotton/linen blends during the summer months, and for example, elegant flannels or more rustic shirt qualities when the weather allows. It follows the same philosophy I have about my jackets and suits and contributes to an extra pleasant feeling when you get to bring out a new wardrobe for the season. For more classic dress shirts, I generally appreciate a weave with some structure even if it's relatively subtle. I often think that texture and structure in the garments we wear are more important than patterns to create dynamism in one's attire.
In the context of professional attire, how do you balance between trendiness and timelessness when choosing your shirts?
I think it's an important balance that should naturally reflect what you work with and who you are. The key is to dress for what the situation requires, which varies depending on where you work and who you are. We are all influenced by current trends, which is completely fine, but what is even more important is to find a balance between what is expected and what is a natural extension of your personality. One piece of advice is to try to keep the foundation relatively classic in shirts and suits and let personal touches happen in accessories.
Do you have any advice on styling a shirt that you could share?
Focus on fabrics and shirt styles that you feel comfortable in and that will be useful to you. After all, Custom Made is about meeting your personal preferences, whether it's a classic white business shirt with a specific collar and monogram, or if you want to order something completely unique. The most important purchase is the one that will be used, so consider what you feel best in.
Any specific feature in connection to above that one should not miss to look into while making the extra investment in a Custom Made shirt? Something that is not available for a Ready-to-wear shirt.
Above all, the fact that Custom Made is a service tailored to you. For example, if you're between sizes or have a body that doesn't match traditional off-the-rack sizes, you can easily customize the basic measurements to fit you perfectly. Prefer a rounded shirt cuff? No problem. Want a specific collar that isn't available in the regular collection? That's fine too. Or why not add a subtle monogram that only you know about on the shirt cuff?
What are your preferred color palettes for this season?
In addition to classic colors like white and light blue, I appreciate shirts in black (preferably with texture) or tones that lean towards off-white or pastels. I'm also increasingly open to incorporating prints into a more formal attire.
What is your primary reason for recommending Custom Made?
Uncompromising quality, whether it's about the fit or personal expression.