Dress Code: Black Tie

The history of black tie attire

To delve into the origins of black-tie attire, let's travel back to the mid-19th century. At that time, dressing for a black tie event involved a tailcoat, vest, high-waisted trousers, a white shirt, and was completed with a cravat – the early version of our modern tie and bowtie. In the 1860s, the then Prince of Wales, who went on to become King Edward VII of the United Kingdom, approached his Savile Row tailor with the desire to create a less formal outfit for a relaxed gathering at Sandringham, one of the British monarchy’s country houses.

This collaboration between prince and tailor led to a modification of the tailcoat, ironically enough, by removing the tails and cutting the coat from a dark blue cloth instead of the traditional black. This moment in fashion history is seen by many as the advent of the dinner jacket. Some say the look took inspiration from velvet smoking jackets, which were popular with gentlemen of the English upper classes, worn to protect suits from cigar smoke.

In the early days, the dinner jacket found its place at home or in private clubs, remaining more appropriate for informal occasions. The more formal White Tie dress code was still the go-to for grand events. However, a shift occurred later, courtesy of another British royal, Prince David. The young prince later became King Edward VIII, only to abdicate the throne in the name of love shortly thereafter. As well as being known for his short and turbulent reign, he was something of a fashion influencer, and it is King Edward VIII we must thank for many modern style conventions.

In the 1920s and 1930s, the boldly sported the dinner jacket at formal gatherings, breaking away from the prevailing trend for tails. His fashion influence played a pivotal role in popularizing the dinner jacket as a credible alternative to white tie attire. By the late 1930s, the dinner jacket had become firmly established as preferred formal wear in royal circles.

In the UK, this attire is known as a dinner jacket, but the more commonly used term in the USA is Tuxedo. The origin of the transatlantic name shift can be linked back to the prestigious Tuxedo Club located just outside New York. There are two versions of the story, but the widely accepted version goes back to the 1860s and the connection between a few Tuxedo Club members who shared the same Savile Row tailor as British royalty. It's believed that these gentlemen introduced the new formal style to the USA, where it gained popularity at the club, eventually adopting the Tuxedo name and spreading onwards across the country.

タキシード

ブラックタイのドレスコードに合わせる際は、シルク製のラペルが特徴のブラック/ダークブルーのタキシードを選びましょう。タキシードはジャケットとパンツに同じ生地を使用し、シルク仕上げのラペルやパンツの両サイドを飾る側章（ガロン）と呼ばれる繊細なシルクの縁取りがあるのが特徴です。
ディナージャケットにはさまざまなスタイルがありますが、ショールカラーのものは最も一般的に普及しており、トラディショナルなシングルボタンを採用していることが基本です。さらにピークドラペルやダブルブレストなど、ディナージャケットにはさまざまな種類があります。

ブラック/ダークブルータキシードが主流である一方で、ホワイトディナージャケットについてはさまざまな議論が飛び交っています。ある人は限られた場所でしか着用できないと言い、ある人はあらゆるシーンで活躍するという意見もあります。シルクの縁取りが施されたスタンダードなブラックタキシードパンツにホワイトタキシードジャケットを合わせてみてはいかがでしょうか。